The Efficient Cook: The Upper Lakes & St. Lawrence Transportation Company’s Cookery Manual

Authors

  • Thomas Malcomson

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.25071/2561-5467.1313

Keywords:

Great Lakes, merchant ships, merchant mariners, cookbooks, diet, nutrition, Canada Food Guide, labour unions

Abstract

Research into the preparation and cooking of food aboard lake freighters is wanting. This article explores the Cookery Manual created for the ships’ cooks in the Upper Lakes and St. Lawrence Transportation Company, in the late 1940s. The manual’s goal was  to provide nutritious, tasty meals contributing to the physical and mental health, contentment and efficiency of the company’s crews. The manual is described and four potential sources of inspiration for such a resource are considered. The potential sources include, the Canadian Government nutrition program at the end of the Depression and through World War II; the navy cookbooks in use during the war; cookbooks for the land based cook; and the labour/management relations after the war. All four likely  contributed to the Cookery Manual’s development. Much remains to be discovered about food and cooking aboard ships.

La recherche sur la préparation et la cuisson des aliments à bord des cargos lacustres font défaut. Cet article explore le manuel de cuisine créé à la fin des années 1940 pour les cuisiniers des navires Upper Lakes et la compagnie de Transportation du St-Laurent. L’objectif du manuel était de fournir des repas nutritifs et savoureux contribuant à la santé physique et mentale, au contentement et à l’efficacité des équipages de l’entreprise. Le manuel est décrit et quatre sources potentielles d’inspiration pour une telle ressource sont considérées. Les sources potentielles comprennent le programme de nutrition du gouvernement canadien à la fin de la Dépression et pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale; les livres de cuisine de la marine utilisés pendant la guerre; livres de cuisine  pour le cuisinier terrestre; et les relations patronales-syndicales après la guerre. Tous les quatre ont probablement contribué à  l’élaboration du manuel de cuisine. Il reste encore beaucoup à découvrir sur l’alimentation et la cuisine à bord des navires.

Author Biography

Thomas Malcomson

Thomas Malcomson is a maritime historian, with a focus on the social history of sailors, ships and ports.  He lives in Toronto and is the current president of the Canadian Nautical Research Society.

References

Admiralty. B.R. 5 Manual of Naval Cookery. London, UK: HM Stationary Office, 1936.

Aubert, V. and O. Arner. “On the Social Structure of the Ship.” Acta Sociologica 3, no. 1 (1958): 200-19. https://doi.org/10.1177/000169935800300118

Boles, F. Sailing Into History: Great Lakes Bulk Carriers of the Twentieth Century and the Crews Who Sailed Them. East Lansing, MI: Michigan State University Press, 2017.

Carpenter, K. “A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 3 (1912-1944).” Journal of Nutrition 133, no. 10 (2003): 3023-32. https://doi.org/10.1093/jn/133.10.3023

Carpenter, K. “A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 4 (1945-1985).” Journal of Nutrition 133, no. 11 (2003): 3331-42. https://doi.org/10.1093/jn/133.11.3331

Driver, E. Culinary Landmarks; A Bibliography of Canadian Cookbooks 1825-1949. Toronto: University of Toronto, 2008.

Edwards, D. “Wartime Rationing 1939-1945: Eat Hash and Like it!” Fairview Historical Society (10 November 2020). https://fairviewhistoricalsociety.ca/wartime-rationing-1939-1945/

Gilliam, E. B. “The Thirties: There Was More to Upper Lakes Than Ships.” https://web.archive.org/web/20081010192119.

Goodhart, R. and L. Pett. “The War-Time Nutrition Programs for Workers in the United States and Canada.” Milbank Memorial Fund Quarterly 23, no. 2 (April 1945): 161-79. https://doi.org/10.2307/3348248

Gow, S. “ʻPusser grub? My God but it was awful!’ Feeding the Fleet During the Second World War.” Canadian Military History 25, no. 2 (2016): 1-44.

The Great Lakes Red Book. Cleveland: Penton Publishing Co., 1948 and 1949.

Health Canada. Canada’s Food Guides From 1942 to 1992. Ottawa: Health Canada, 2002.

“John Daniel Leitch.” For Posterity’s Sake. http://www.forposterityssake.ca/CTB-BIO/MEM002432.htm

Kaplan, W. Everything that Floats: Pat Sullivan, Hal Banks, and the Seamen’s Unions of Canada. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1987.

Macht, Wally. The First 50 Years: A History of Upper Lakes Shipping Ltd. Toronto: Virgo Press, 1981.

Mäenpää, S. “From Pea Soup to Hors d’oeuvres: The Status of the Cook on British Merchant Ships.” Northern Mariner/Le marin du nord 11, no. 2 (April 2001): 39-55. https://doi.org/10.25071/2561-5467.598.

Malcomson, T. Order and Disorder in the British Navy, 1793-1815: Control, Resistance, Flogging and Hanging. Woodbridge, UK: Boydell Press, 2016.

Macdonald, J. Feeding Nelson’s Navy: The True Story of Food at Sea in the Georgian Era. London: Frontline Books, 2014.

MacRae, R. J. “Lessons from WWII” (2023). Food Policy for Canada: joined up food policy to create a just, health promoting and sustainable food system. https://foodpolicyforcanada.info.yorku.ca/goals/goal-2/demand-supply-coordination/wwii/.

Mc Dorman, T. “The History of Shipping Law in Canada: The British Dominance.” Dalhousie Law Journal 7, no. 3 (1983): 620-53. https://digitalcommons.schulichlaw.dal.ca/dlj/vol7/iss3/14/.

Mosby, I. Food will Win the War: The Politics, Culture, and Science of Food on Canada’s Home Front. Vancouver: UBC Press, 2014.

Palmer, R., B. Wiley, and W. Keast. The Procurement and Training of Ground Combat Troops. Washington, DC: Center of Military History, United States Army, 1991.

Pugsley, W. Saints, Devils and Ordinary Seamen: Life on the Royal Canadian Navy’s Lower Deck. Toronto: Collins, 1945.

Strikwerda, E. “ʻCanada Needs All Our Food-Power’: Industrial Nutrition in Canada 1941-1948.” Labour/Le Travail 83 (Spring 2019): 9-41.

Tomlinson, G. “Thought for Food: A Study of Written Instructions.” Symbolic Interaction 9, no. 2 (Fall 1986): 201-16. https://doi.org/10.1525/si.1986.9.2.201

Tucker, G. N. The Naval Service of Canada: Its Official History, Vol. 2 Activities on Shore During the Second World War. Ottawa: King’s Printer, 1952.

US Army. Army Food and Messing: The Complete Manual of Mess Management, 2nd ed. Harrisburg, PA: Military Service Publishing Limited, 1942.

US Navy. The Cook Book of the United States Navy-Revised. Washington, DC: United States Government Printing Office, 1945.

Weibust, K. Deep Sea Sailors: A Study in Maritime Ethnology. Stockholm: Kungl, Boktryckeriet P.A. Norstedt & Söner, 1969.

Crew mess at meal time. Historical Collections of the Great Lakes, Bowling Green State University.

Downloads

Published

2025-04-22

How to Cite

Malcomson, T. (2025). The Efficient Cook: The Upper Lakes & St. Lawrence Transportation Company’s Cookery Manual. The Northern Mariner Le Marin Du Nord, 34(3), 339–372. https://doi.org/10.25071/2561-5467.1313